INCI : SORBITAN OLIVATE, CETEARYL OLIVATE
Olivem 1000 is an emulsifier that creates liquid crystal emulsions. This type of emulsion mimics the arrangement of lipids in the surface layer of skin and this aspect makes emulsions formed with Olivem 1000 bio-compatible. Rather than simply being a functional ingredient that creates an emulsion, Olivem 1000 may be regarded as an active ingredient in its own right.
Research has demonstrated that Olivem 1000 based emulsions have a remarkable capacity for reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Tests demonstrated a reduction in TEWL of 29% compared to standard oil-in water emulsions. The ability of Olivem 1000 emulsions to prevent TEWL: can last for several hours after application thus providing long term moisturising and hydrating benefits.
The moisturising benefits of OLivem 1000 can be enhanced by the inclusion of 2% to 4% Glycerine in the water phase of your formulation.
Olivem 1000 is compatible with a wide range of actives and is stable in the range pH 3 to 12.
When heating Olivem 1000 in the oil phase of your formulation be careful not to exceed 80C.
Olivem 1000 may be used as the sole emulsifier in your formulation but we recommend the use of Oliwax 1% to 2% to thicken and stabilise the finished product.
Usage Rate: 2% - 3% for lotions. 4% to 5 % for creams.
Use water thickener (Xanthan, Cellulose Carbomer etc) in the water phase ( 0.5% to 1%) to enhance stability
For further information about formulating with Olivem 1000 click on the Guideines Tab
Olivem 1000 is a more sophisticated emulsifier than the traditional oil in water emulsifiers. It forms what is known as a liquid crystal emulsion (LCE). LCE is a bio-mimetic and as such as mimics the arrangement of the lipid barrier in our skin. Because of this, LCE has an affinity for skin. Moisturisation is enhanced and active ingredients find it easier to pass through the already dead surface layer of skin and work on the living skin underneath.
It is slightly trickier to process.
Typical oil in water emulsifiers are popular because of the simplicity of processing the oil phase and water phases. Add the emulsifier to the heated oil phase, heat the water phase and combine under high speed stirring (a domestic stick blender is ideal for small batches) for a minute or two. And that’s pretty much it - the occasional stir whilst cooling down is all that is generally required.
LCE emulsifiers such as Olivem 1000 are pretty much processed in the same way initially. Add the emulsifier to the heated oil phase, heat the water phase and combine under high speed stirring. However the emulsion cannot be left to cool down unattended. The emulsion has a tendency to separate as the emulsion is not formed until the temperature reaches 40C approx. It is necessary to stir the emulsion almost continuously until cool.
If you have a food mixer with stand and attached bowl then these can provide the continuous stirring required. Simply set the mixer at its lowest speed setting and leave alone. Be careful though because many domestic mixers cannot be run for more than 5 minutes without damaging the motor and often the warranty does not cover such an eventuality.
For those who make regular batches of creams we recommend mixers from the Kitchenaid range. We have found that these machines will mix happily for an hour. And the lowest speed setting is perfect.
If your budget can not stretch to such a machine there is an alternative. We have found through experience that increasing the amount of water thickening agents really helps to stabilise the emulsion whilst it is cooling and does prevent separation. Once the emulsion is completely formed the cream or lotion is entirely stable - it is only 'temperamental' during formation.
Our favourite water thickening agent is Siligel. Add at 0.5% to 0.8% (5 to 8 grams per kg of finished product) and the formation of the emulsion is pretty much fool proof. It doesn't require continuous stirring - just the occasional stir with a spatula will suffice. Sepimax Zen at 0.3% also works well.
You can of course use the more common water thickening agents, Hydroxyethyl cellulose works well so too does Xanthan Gum.
Write an online review
and share your thoughts with other shoppers!
5 stars simply because it is the best price available
Great product at a great price.